On the Kinabatangan

Early Morning on the Kinabatangan - March 2012

Starehe - A Swahili word. As a verb it means 'to live in comfortable circumstances;' as a noun it means serenity, rest, relaxation, and recreation. In Malay, I'm told, it is translated as selesa. From recent experience, I'd describe it like this . . . Kinabatangan.


The Sungai Kinabatangan (Kinabatangan River) runs from Borneo's inland mountains to the Sulu Sea, a couple hours southeast of the city of Sandakan. Its muddy brown waters form the lifeblood of a diverse ecosystem centered on the river and its flood plains. Along its shores one can see scores of birds, troops of monkeys, wild orangutans, and - if you are lucky- the elusive Pygmy Elephant.

After a day spent lounging on Sapi Island and a Road Trip across Sabah, the next leg of the journey took us by bus from Sandakan to Kampung Bilit, a small village for a group of Orang Sungai (or river people) who make their living off of the river and the Oil Palm Plantations that are encroaching on its banks. From  Bilit, it was a short boat ride across the river to the Kinabatangan Nature Lodge, home base for three days and two nights along the river.

Once there, the rest of the world slid away. River trips and wildlife viewing at sunrise and sunset; muddy walks through the jungle in morning and at night; meals shared with fellow travelers; and a languid afternoon nap in the tropical heat - this became the stuff of life.

On our first trip out, a couple bends in the river away from the Lodge, we spotted a wild Orangutan sitting low in a tree. Partially submerged in the water, a juvenile Crocodile patrolled the river bank just in front of him. Later, on this and following river trips, we observed several groups of Proboscis Monkeys, a multitude of Macaques, and a few pairs of Rhinoceros Hornbills. If there was one regret it was that the Pygmy Elephants had not yet migrated back to this stretch of the river; we were told that they were 'still a week away'.

Though the Kinabatangan doesn't offer the adventure caving or hikes of Mulu  or the in-your-face animal encounters of Bako (still my two favorite parks in Malaysia), it has a magic all its own. Between the hours spent on the water observing incredible creatures and those spent sipping Tigers on the shore with a good friend, starehe happens.

For more photos, check out the album on the right or click here.