I've Got Seoul
From 6 April
Some places evoke certain colors. Bali is green, with more shades than one could hope to count or name. Tanzania, in my mind's eye, is a patchwork of earthy browns from the countryside shambas to the the seas of dried grasses in Ruaha. Seoul is another such place and it is gray. It is the color of concrete and of construction. It is the hue of modernity, sleek and ambivalent. It is the somber tone of a late-winter sky against which the buds of spring are preparing to burst forth.
Admittedly such colorscapes are limited and change over time. Were one to travel to central Tanzania in January instead of July one would witness a riot of color that accompanies the rainy season and the restoration of life. To sum up Seoul, a megacity of some 10 million people, as 'gray' based on 6 hours of exploration on some idle Thursday is, perhaps, a bit unfair - and yet it seems to fit.
Flying from Kota Kinabalu to Los Angeles, the most direct (and affordable) routing passes through Seoul's Incheon Airport, my favorite airport in the world. While lacking the flash of Singapore and Hong Kong, Incheon's efficiency and thoughtful simplicity are beautiful. In a word, I'd describe transit there as soothing - not a phrase I often think of when it comes to air travel. As pleasant as the airport may be, I had a ten-hour layover this time around and itchy feet to check out the town.
The flight from KK got in around 6am and by 8am I was through immigration and on an express train into the city. An hour later I was at Seoul Central navigating the morning rush and making my way to the subway. Being a sucker for old buildings and fresh air, my destination was Gyeongbokgung Palace. I arrived in time for the changing of the guards - an hourly pageant involving drums and horns and flags and lots of marching meant to evoke the glory days of the Joseon Dynasty that called this Grand Palace home. Touristy? Yes. An interesting way to start the day? For sure.
Wandering through the rest of the palace I was reminded a lot of my visit to China a year ago. The layout of the complex, with its series of courtyards and pavilions was reminiscent of the Imperial Palace/Forbidden City. Smaller in scale, the architecture of the Gyeongbokgung reflects the muted sensibilities of Seoul in contrast to the intensity of Beijing. Bright reds and golds and elaborate carvings are eschewed in favor of earth tones and, again, simplicity.
From Gyeongbokgung, I made my way South, walking along a broad boulevard past another palace, gardens, and business districts. Around 1pm I was back at Seoul Central where I had a quick bite to eat before hopping on a train out to the airport for a (free!) shower and a brief rest before my flight across the Pacific. With a full day of walking and sunshine behind me, I slept soundly all the way to LA.
As I cross back and forth between the North America and Southeast Asia in the years to come, I look forward to spending more time in Seoul. Having just scratched its understated exterior, I imagine there is quite a bit more to explore beneath its surface. Also, I've developed a liking for kimchi.
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| Changing of the Guards at Gyeongbokgung - April 2012 |
Some places evoke certain colors. Bali is green, with more shades than one could hope to count or name. Tanzania, in my mind's eye, is a patchwork of earthy browns from the countryside shambas to the the seas of dried grasses in Ruaha. Seoul is another such place and it is gray. It is the color of concrete and of construction. It is the hue of modernity, sleek and ambivalent. It is the somber tone of a late-winter sky against which the buds of spring are preparing to burst forth.
Admittedly such colorscapes are limited and change over time. Were one to travel to central Tanzania in January instead of July one would witness a riot of color that accompanies the rainy season and the restoration of life. To sum up Seoul, a megacity of some 10 million people, as 'gray' based on 6 hours of exploration on some idle Thursday is, perhaps, a bit unfair - and yet it seems to fit.
Flying from Kota Kinabalu to Los Angeles, the most direct (and affordable) routing passes through Seoul's Incheon Airport, my favorite airport in the world. While lacking the flash of Singapore and Hong Kong, Incheon's efficiency and thoughtful simplicity are beautiful. In a word, I'd describe transit there as soothing - not a phrase I often think of when it comes to air travel. As pleasant as the airport may be, I had a ten-hour layover this time around and itchy feet to check out the town.
The flight from KK got in around 6am and by 8am I was through immigration and on an express train into the city. An hour later I was at Seoul Central navigating the morning rush and making my way to the subway. Being a sucker for old buildings and fresh air, my destination was Gyeongbokgung Palace. I arrived in time for the changing of the guards - an hourly pageant involving drums and horns and flags and lots of marching meant to evoke the glory days of the Joseon Dynasty that called this Grand Palace home. Touristy? Yes. An interesting way to start the day? For sure.
Wandering through the rest of the palace I was reminded a lot of my visit to China a year ago. The layout of the complex, with its series of courtyards and pavilions was reminiscent of the Imperial Palace/Forbidden City. Smaller in scale, the architecture of the Gyeongbokgung reflects the muted sensibilities of Seoul in contrast to the intensity of Beijing. Bright reds and golds and elaborate carvings are eschewed in favor of earth tones and, again, simplicity.
From Gyeongbokgung, I made my way South, walking along a broad boulevard past another palace, gardens, and business districts. Around 1pm I was back at Seoul Central where I had a quick bite to eat before hopping on a train out to the airport for a (free!) shower and a brief rest before my flight across the Pacific. With a full day of walking and sunshine behind me, I slept soundly all the way to LA.
As I cross back and forth between the North America and Southeast Asia in the years to come, I look forward to spending more time in Seoul. Having just scratched its understated exterior, I imagine there is quite a bit more to explore beneath its surface. Also, I've developed a liking for kimchi.
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