Taman Negara

A REAL Jungle River Cruise [No Disney Animatronics in Sight] - Jan 2010

A little more than 30 hours after they landed at KLIA, my first round of visitors and I found ourselves seeking shelter from the heat/humidity in the small town of Kuala Tembeling. Respite was found in the form of a covered porch in front of a hole-in-the-wall restaurant that came complete with a baby resting comfortably as he bounced up and down in a sarong attached to an old set of springs hanging from the ceiling. We enjoyed a decent lunch of fried rice or noodles with a combination of meat and or veggies - pretty standard fare - before heading over to the jetty for our three hour boat trip upriver to Taman Negara (aka the National Park).

After the bus ride from KL, the leisurely boat ride north to the park headquarters at Kuala Tahan was the perfect transition from the hustle and bustle of a 21st century global city to the edge of the oldest tropical rainforest on the planet. The shrinking buildings, towering trees, and constant hum of the boat engine nearly transported me back 130+ million years. Bursting the illusion a bit, the red and white communication towers sprouting from the occasional mountainous ridge kept my cellphone fed and my mind partially tethered to the wider world.

Our destination was the Mutiara Taman Negara Resort - the only resort within the boundaries of the park proper (the other accommodations form a hodge-podge of noise and activity on the opposing bank of the river). Definitely a higher-end destination, it reminded me of some of the busier lodges and camps on the northern safari circuit in Tanzania in that, while surrounded by primal nature (cell towers and cross-river chaos aside) creature comforts were plentiful.

Though my personal druthers might veer a bit more toward the rugged and remote, given the mix of our group this was the perfect place to be; with the sound of the river and buzz of the darkened jungle, my Malay-style chalet and comfortable bed gave me some of the most restful nights of sleep I have had in months.

While we didn't have the time or equipment to venture deep into the rainforest (perhaps another visit?), we were able to take a night walk to an elevated hide for a little animal observation on our first evening, followed by guided excursions to trek in the jungle, cross the canopy walkway, and swim in the cool, clear waters of a set of cascades the next day.

All in all, it was a great break from the concrete jungle I navigate here daily in KL and a fantastic preemptive birthday celebration. What could be better than a couple days filled with nothing but clean air, fresh water, a couple leeches, and a bit of adventure shared with close friends visiting from half-a-world away.

While I'm glad to be back in the city and to return to a more normal routine after hosting guests for the last week, I'm also looking forward to my next chance to get away and to the arrival of more travelers in the months to come. Again I consider myself lucky, for this is truly an incredible place to be.

New pictures from Taman Negara and other events over the last several weeks have all been posted online, just follow through to the 'Malaysia' photo album on the right or click here.